The Marquesas lie in northern French Polynesia over 3,000 nautical miles from the Galapagos. As we approached, a solo sailor told us over the radio that due to Covid all sailing boats had to go directly to Tahiti. When sailing we have no internet so were blissfully oblivious of the new world situation. Our 30 day crossing therefore turned into 43! It was never boring due to constant maintenance, repairs, cooking, baking, fishing and of course navigation. We saw gorgeous sunsets and during our night watches gazed at the clear star-studded sky enjoying the peacefulness of being alone in the middle of nowhere. We had periods without any wind and around the Tuamotu islands frequent storms but otherwise the Pacific crossing was perfect.
Then one morning we sighted land – Tahiti at last! There were boats everywhere so we were most fortunate to find a place in a marina – rather necessary as our anchor windlass had broken! Imagine our delight at finding a huge Carrefour supermarket by the marina and buying fresh fruit and vegetables from local stands! After two days Covid restrictions were partially lifted meaning we could cycle into Papeete on our folding bikes. During our 6 week stay we restocked with food, did maintenance, had a sail repaired and bought a new dinghy and outboard motor. We rented a car and drove around most of the island walking in lush forests, admiring cascades and exploring marae (old temples). Everyone in Tahiti, as we found on all the islands we visited, was helpful, polite and always smiling. Really lovely!
Dolphins, who had welcomed us when we arrived, were there to say goodbye as we sailed to nearby Moorea. We moored in Captain Cook Bay surrounded by majestic mountains, hiked through pineapple plantations and swam and snorkelled in clear waters amongst fish and coral.
A rather difficult and rough overnight sail took us to the rugged, lush and scarcely developed tranquil island of Huahine with its bustling village Fare. Here we embraced their slow pace of life, tasted local food served from ‘roulottes’ (shacks) and bought fruit and vegetables from welcoming locals. We visited a vanilla farm where they also make pareos. There was no litter anywhere and all the houses, gardens and green areas were well-maintained. The houses have long letter-boxes for ‘posting’ baguettes! As with the other islands, except Tahiti, there were no tourists and hardly any boats.
After a short sail we arrived at Raiatea with its high and imposing mountains surrounded by a coral lagoon entered through narrow passes – no room for mistakes! Taking our dinghy we paddled up the Faaroa river visiting a botanical garden en route. Loading our bikes into our dinghy to reach the shore wasn’t easy but worth it to visit impressive Taputapuatea 20 kms away, which is the largest marae (archaelogical site) in Polynesia.
The quietest Society Island, Tahaa, was our next destination. We explored its low and graceful hills, visited a pearl farm and swam in the breathtakingly beautiful ‘coral garden’ by Ile de Tautau, most of which you walk through and crouch on the sand surrounded by coral and hundreds of fish who peer through your mask!
Bora Bora, the setting of the film ‘South Pacific’, evokes images of turquoise crystal clear water, stunning white sand-edged motus (islets) and soaring rainforest-covered basaltic peaks. Truly beautiful.
Our trip in paradise ended apruptly on July 1st with the passing of André’s father and the need to return urgently to France. Impossible to find a dry dock space to leave the boat but fortunately Tony, on the atoll of Apataki in the Tuamotus, found us one due to our situation. We then endured a six day rough sail against strong winds to reach this tiny atoll without electricity, running water, roads or shops. A few days later Tony drove us by speed boat for 2 hours to a nearby atoll where we boarded an island hopping flight to Tahiti. Then an 18 hour flight to Paris via Vancouver.
If we can, we hope to return to French Polynesia in the spring and continue sailing in this beautiful and unspoilt corner of the world.
Society Islands – Windward islands (Tahiti & Moorea) and Leeward Islands (the rest…)
Heading west !
On the chart plotter as we go through the Tuamotus archipelago
Sailing downwind among thunderstorms
Sunset over Moorea from Papeete, Marina Taina dock
Making sugar cane juice
Faarumai waterfalls – Tahiti
My new crew: Tahitian god Tiki
The Water Gardens of Vaipahi, Tahiti
Tahiti Iti, village of Tautira
Danger, do not park under the coconut trees
Tahiti Teahupo’o surf spot on a calm day
Cook’s bay, Moorea
Pineapple plantation
Local grapefruits are as big as melons
Opunohu Bay, Moorea
Rotui mountain with Cook’s Bay and Opunohu Bay , Moorea
Training behind our boat for Va’a races (outrigger canoes)
Eating Tahitian marinated raw tuna at a ‘Roulotte’ in Fare, Huahine
Moondance anchored in Avea Bay, Huahine Iti
Huahine Iti lagoon
Sergeant major damselfishes
Pacific Double Saddle Butterfly fish
Tiki statue in Huahine Iti
Marae Anini in Parea
A Paraw, double-outrigger sailboat
Vanilla pods
Tiare, the national flower of French Polynesia
One of several churches in each village
Getting ready for a bike trip in Raiatea
Taputapuatea marae on Raiatea
Motus on the north shore of Tahaa island
Snorkelling the coral garden at motu Tautau, Tahaa
Christmas Tree Worms
Anemonefish
Black pearl grafting
Mount Otemanu, Bora Bora
Bora Bora overwater bungalow resort
Bora Bora local family house
Bora Bora Yacht Club
Letterbox designed for French baguettes
One of several churches in each village
Apataki atoll in the Tuamotus
Getting Moondance on dry dock in Apataki
Arutua atoll airport
Ahe atoll, Tuamotus
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Great to hear about your adventures Andre, not sure if you have got back to your boat now, but look forward to reading about your onward travels. Bon Voyage!