Arriving in southern New Caledonia after leaving Lenakel, Vanuatu 48 hours earlier, we anchored in peaceful Proney Bay, before affronting the noise of the capital Nouméa the next day. Multi-ethnic Nouméa is home to about 63% of the country’s population. Central Nouméa revolves around the Place des Cocotiers with its concerts, street markets, pétanque pitch and botanical gardens. The colourful nearby market at Port Moselle sells fish, fruit, vegetables, flowers, breads, olives… as well as arts and crafts. We would go there daily to buy their excellent ware and we also stock up on French food at the supermarkets.
The Tjibaou Cultural Centre, a bus ride away, was designed by Renzo Piano and is a tribute to a pro-independence Kanak leader Jean-Marie Tjibaou. The centre displays sculpture, paintings and photographs representing Kanak culture as well as other cultures from around the Pacific. It is set in woods and the main buildings are a series of tall, curved wooden structures which rise majestically above the trees. Behind are traditional ‘grandes cases’ where Kanak dance shows are held. We found it most interesting and informative and tasted some traditional food.
We rented a car and drove across to Yate on the east coast. The earth is red from the nickel which is mined and we were shocked to see many pits and dug up areas which had not been filled in. Quite an eyesore. Trying to find a cafe or shop proved very difficult as places had not reopened after covid. Eventually we bought snacks at a petrol station once it had reopened after lunch!
Isle of Pines, named by Captain James Cook in 1774, lying 110 kms SE of Nouméa, is tranquil with turquoise bays, white sandy beaches and tropical vegetation. We anchored in the pretty, shallow bay of Kuto and explored this part of the island walking amongst countless pine trees. We continued sailing, anchoring in front of spits of sandy, coral land like Isle Mato and reached Amedée Lighthouse on a coral surrounded island where turtles and harmless sharks swam by the boat. Climbing the 247 steps of the lighthouse was worth the effort to enjoy the amazing view. After sailing north and anchoring in several places like îlot Signal, we reached Nouméa again. Here we shopped and prepared the boat for the 10 day or so crossing to Bundaberg in Australia.
