Sailing to Savusavu, Vanua Levu, from French Polynesia took us 15, no 16 days, as we crossed the date line! 332 islands covering a vast archipelago, but we had 2.5 months. We found a multicultural population of Melanesian, Polynesian, Chinese, European and about 40% of Indo-Fijan origin. There are many religions; 60% are Christians with 80% being Methodists. As Fione is a Methodist this was always a bonus! On the small islands going to church is a must. Fijians are most welcoming, ready to share everything.
In Savusavu we visited a copra mill. Growing coconuts gives people income but trees have been devastated by beetles. A visit to the international date line was a must. Located behind a rugby pitch Fione got muddled up in a game of rugby! We bought bundles of roots, from which the traditional drink kava is made, to give to the village chiefs when you arrive somewhere new. Dressed modestly you give a bundle and ask permission to anchor and visit. Then people often invited us to drink tea, for a meal and rowed to our yacht often bringing fruit and coconuts. A good way to meet the locals.
In Viani Bay we visited a coral nursery where coral pieces which adapt to warmer seas are planted. Encouraging! Fione snorkelled and André dived on Taveuni’s vast and amazing Rainbow Reef.
We awaited a rare NW wind to sail to the isolated, rarely visited Lau group starting with Fulaga; a vast turquoise lagoon containing many islets of limestone, surrounded by hills and woods. Here we attended a singing competition in a church – Fijians sing beautifully. Woodcarving is a tradition here. On islands locals gave us fruit and vegetables including cassava, their equivalent to potatoes. In one village the schoolmistress invited us for lunch! In the Lau islands the monthly cargo ship sometimes does not come and although they lack “salt, sugar and soap”, they are happy and share all they have. Children as young as 5 often go to another island to school returning at weekends, except when there is no fuel to take them. On Gau island we attended church and during the 2 hour service the minister gave a 10 mns sermon in English just for us! A family then kindly invited us for lunch. Gau’s village chief needed urgently to go to hospital in Suva and as there was no boat we gave him a lift. He enjoyed the overnight sail and was good company!
Our elder son Philippe and uni friend Mark joined us in Suva for 5 weeks. Together we sailed around the main island Viti Levu. The old colonial capital Levuka was interesting especially bouncing along in the local bus to get there! During these weeks the [3 men did several dives, we did walks and sailed around the rugged, barren Yasawa islands and the beautiful Mamanuca islands with their white sands and turquoise seas, coral, fish and turtles.
