Nearly one year after leaving French Polynesia we at last could return, although this entailed completing umpteen documents. After 2 weeks of repairs, maintenance and cleaning, Moondance was put back in the water only to find we had various internal leaks plus our windlass was broken. We sailed to Tahiti and spent 8 weeks awaiting delivery of a replacement from the UK which flew around the world (Germany, USA, Canada, Hawaii, Australia, New Zealand)! Fortunately we spent fun evenings with Fabiola and Alain, catamaran Va’a, who were also in Marina Taina. We continued visiting and were rescued by a lovely couple, Sara and Patrick, when we became stranded 50 kms away on the southern tip of Tahiti Iti!
André installed the new windlass, the 4-week Covid lockdown was finally lifted and we set sail for the Marquesas our original destination in April 2020. We endured a rough 10 day sail against the wind to reach these lush, volcanic islands with huge cascades and ancient ruins often only accessible after several hours trek through the jungle. As some of these islands can only be reached by boat, there are hardly any tourists and we frequently moored alone in bays surrounded by majestic scenery. Our first anchorage was in the Bay of Virgins on Fatu Hiva where we were dwarfed by huge basaltic rocks. In these remote islands often devoid of internet, time has slowed down. The locals were everywhere extremely welcoming wanting to recount their lives telling us how their ancestors lived and their traditions. Frequently we were given fruit from their abundant gardens (huge grapefruit, papaya, whole bunches of bananas, breadfruit…..) and were invited inside and given refreshments.
Next we sailed to Tahuata and enjoyed snorkelling and swimming to a white sandy beach as most islands have black sandy beaches with sharks lurking in the waters! Atuona on Hiva Oa was our next port of call where we shopped and connected to the internet. Ipona is one of the best preserved archaeological sites in French Polynesia and the 5 monumental tikis impressed us. Tikis are wooden or stone sculptures endowed with an important spiritual and symbolic force and originate on these islands – many hidden in woods and jungles. Gauguin lived and painted on Hiva Oa where we visited his museum and grave. The famous Belgian singer Jacques Brel also lived there and we met a 72 year old lady who had known him well and, when he flew much-needed medicine to Ua Pou in his plane, she often was a passenger going to see her parents. From Atuona we sailed north to Hanaiapa and trekked over mountains to the beautiful, isolated, pine coconut tree framed sandy Hanatekuua Bay. Nearby, Hanatekuua is a typical village with abundant flowers, trees, grass and no litter.
Arriving in Hakahau, Ua Pou at 6:00am with the sunrise highlighting basaltic peaks shrouded in swirling mist was a surreal experience. Ashore we stocked up as the Aranui 5, part cargo, part cruise ship, had just arrived. Often shop shelves are empty and locals await patiently this 3-weekly event.
André had planned 15 different anchorages during our time on these islands but because many anchorages are rolly, and some extremely so, he limited it to 10 acceptable ones! Therefore on Ua Pou, unwilling to moor elsewhere, we took a guide who drove us into the valley of Hohoi to visit a stone polisher and then onto Haakauita Bay which is covered with pebbles. We searched for some special ones called ‘flower stones’ because they contain small crystals of titaniferous andradite causing them to shine, especially when wet. They are only found there or in New Zealand!
Our last island Nuku Hiva is the largest and we moored in several bays visiting many ma’ae (archaeological sites) where we were alone except for wild horses and goats who roam freely. The island has many churches/cathedrals often without walls or windows and worth visiting all being quite different. A day’s midge-bitten trek to the end of Hakaui Valley revealed a canyon whose vertical walls rise to nearly 800m and Vaipo Waterfall, the highest in French Polynesia at 350m although unfortunately it was almost dry. Hakatea Bay surrounded by majestic rocks and where we saw manta ray, was a fitting place to end our perfect, long-awaited, trip to the Marquesas.
After an uneventful 6 day sail when André caught a tuna, we arrived back at Apataki shipyard. Whilst preparing the boat we snorkelled amongst coral and fish and met up again with Marie-Claire celebrating her special birthday. Before flying to Paris we spent time in Papeete and had the joy of dining with Sara and Patrick.
Flying above Greenland on the way to Tahiti
Checking mast and rigging before another few months of sailing
Filling up with 450 liters of fuel
Replacing windlass and 80m of anchor chain
Dance costume for Tahiti Heiva festival
Bread & Cakes stand at Papeete market
A “Hei” – Polynesian flower necklace at Papeete market
Hibiscus flower at Marina Taina, Papeete
Dolfins playing with Moondance during our journey to the Marquesas
Bay of Virgins – Fatu Hiva island
Vaiee-Nui waterfall – Hanavave, Fatu Hiva
Bay of Virgins / Hanavave – Fatu Hiva
Grapefruits, the size of a cantaloupe melon, grow everywhere in the Marquesas
Hanamoenoa Bay – Tahuata island
Calvary cemetery – Atuona, Hiva Oa island
Jacques Brel’s grave in Hiva Oa
Moondance alone in Hanaiapa Bay, north of Hiva Oa
Feral goats found in all Marquesas islands causing extinction of native plants
Hanatekuua village in Northern Hiva Oa
Early morning landing at Ua Pou island
Ua Pou volcanic rock spires (Mount Oave being the highest)
Hakahau fishing harbour – Ua Pou
Aranui 5 bringing tourists and freight to Hakahau, Ua Pou main settlement
Sunset on Hakahau Bay – Ua Pou
Va’a (outrigger canoe racing) training
Weekend paddling in the family va’a
Hakahau village Primary School entrance
Inside Hakahau church
Cooking a Breadfruit Gratin
A helping hand to secure our dinghy onshore
Trekking in Ua Pou – Anahoa Bay
Polishing “Flower Stones” – Hohoi valley, Ua Pou
Carved Tiki at Ma’ae (Polynesian temple) Hikokua near Hatiheu in Nuku Hiva
A break from the heat at Tohua (ceremonial plaza) Hikokua
Picnic on a Paepae (house platform) at Kamuihei Ma’ae near Hatiheu – Nuku Hiva
Marquesans were fierce warriors . . .
Sacred banyan tree (more than 600 years old) at Kamuihei Ma’ae
Church for the handful of inhabitants at Anaho Bay in the north of Nuku Hiva
College students riding & racing horses during the weekend at Taiohae Bay – Nuku Hiva
Local artist carvings decorating the house of an old Marquesan family in Taiohae
Arriving at sunset in Hakatea Bay – Nuku Hiva
Manta ray in Hakatea Bay
Trekking in Hakaui valley near Hakatea Bay – Nuku Hiva
At the end of Hakaui Valley, Vaipo waterfall was almost dry
Nurse Shark very close to the shore at Apataki in the Tuamotus
Snorkeling among Apataki corals while at anchorage in front of the boatyard
Drying coconuts for Copra at Apataki boatyard
Flying from Apataki atoll
An evening out with our friends in Papeete – Tahiti
Tahitian gardenias or Tiare flowers
