GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

Completing the paperwork and providing the documents required to sail with your own boat to the Galapagos was no mean task. The 9 day sail turned into 12 through lack of wind but as André caught a tuna we didn’t starve! Around sunset each day red-footed boobies would settle on the solar panel or bow railings! Sadly we had to shoo them away due to all their droppings.

Upon arrival at San Cristobal, 9 officials came aboard and inspected the entire boat including the hull which André had dived to clean 50 nautical miles from our destination. The officials made sure we’d no fresh food, checked expiry dates, inspected cupboards, took up floorboards, informed us the washing-up liquid was not eco-friendly so we must buy another and email them a photo and the receipt. Eventually they left but not before fumigating all the boat, telling us not to return for 4 hours!

Boats must anchor in the bay and to go ashore we took water-taxis. Seeing us leave, sea-lions would frequently climb onto our boat and at night we’d hear them lumbering onto the deck! On the pier they were sunbathing occupying all the benches!

As sailing to most places is not authorised and as you need a guide to visit the National Parks, we decided to book a cruise. We found a 6 day cruise on a small 16 passenger boat but had to pay in cash which proved a challenge! Mission accomplished, we took a speed boat to Santa Cruz to embark on “Aida Maria”. Our mostly young fellow passengers were fun and enthusiastic and our guide dynamic and knowledgeable. We sailed from island to island often going ashore at 6 am to hike in National Parks, visit animal sanctuaries, paddle up mangroves and snorkel in the warm, clear sea. We snorkelled with turtles, penguins, dolphins, sea-lions, ray fish and many other species, saw pelicans feeding underwater and heard parrot fish crunching the coral. On land we witnessed blue-footed boobies doing their nuptial dance, male frigates puffed up to impress, saw flamingos, cormorants, storks, pink crabs, herons, iguanas, tortoises, mockingbirds, Darwin finches…..As wildlife is never harmed they are unafraid so we could come very close.

The Galapagos islands are truly unique and unspoilt and despite being excessively exploited as a tourist, we thoroughly enjoyed all of our 2.5 week stay.