Ecuador

What a contrast between the heat and 85% humidity of sea-level Panama and the cold dryness of the Andes at the 2,800m of Quito where we landed. We had decided to travel throughout Ecuador and Peru using local buses and staying in B&Bs or small guest houses to be with the locals as much as feasible. We needed to hike a lot, especially in altitude, to prepare for the 3 day trek to Machu Picchu. 4 weeks to become super fit – no problem 🙂

Taking the TelefériQo in Quito up to 4,100m was a good test for altitude sickness. We were fine – a positive start! Quito is surrounded by snow-capped mountains. The old town has narrow, cobbled streets, old elaborate churches, museums and restored buidlings, as well as lively plazas which are all particularly beautiful at night.

From Quito we took local buses to travel part of the isolated Quilotoa Loop which winds through tiny villages wedged between mountains, volcanoes and canyons. Spectacular scenery. The Kichwa-speaking locals live and dress as in centuries past. We stayed with a family and were privileged to experience their way of life in freezing Zumbahua. We were soon to discover that nowhere had heating so that after permanently sweltering, being cold was going to be the new norm! The colourful market at 3,800m brings together indigenous vendors from the mountains to sell their goods. At nearby Quilotoa we walked down from 3,914m to the volcanic-crater green lake 400m below, reputed by the locals to have no bottom!

Baños, at 1,800m, was quite a contrast with its waterfalls, forests and thermal springs. We enjoyed the Termos El Salado surrounded by tree-covered hills next to a river, reached via a deep canyon.

Another bus ride with great views of mountains and volcanoes led us to Riobamba, whose lay-out and architecture are strong reminders of Spanish colonisation. Taking a taxi we drove past volcanic rocks whose layers had been formed over millennia, to reach the Volcano Chimborazo. We hiked to 5,100m and gazed up through clouds and snow to glimpse Ecuador’s highest peak at 6,263m.

A 6 hour bus journey later and we were in Cuenca. A beautiful city with another historical centre impregnated with different cultures from the Cañari people 3,000 years ago to the Incas and the Spanish. We visited the nearby Ingapirca ruins. A highlight of Cuenca was watching the famous Panama hats being made. Despite the name their origin is not Panama but Ecuador! Postcards of Cuenca were bought, written and posted….they are yet to arrive!

Before leaving Ecuador we had yet another wonderful meal. Whether purchased by the road, in markets or restaurants the food was always excellent. Happily replenished we settled down for our overnight bus trip to Peru. The long-distance coaches are similar to flying business-class with 160° reclining comfortable seats and meals served by a hostess. All very civilised!