Panama from Bocas Del Toro to the San Blas Islands

A predicted 9 day crossing of 1180 nautical miles from the British Virgin Islands to Bocas del Toro in west Panama turned into 12 days due to the lack of wind and an adverse Gulf Stream. André gave up fishing because of the many algae, made bread and turned to the never-ending maintenance of the boat. After a couple of days an unseasick Fione was able to cook and read. The days and nights of 3 hour watches past uneventfully with the occasional sighting of dolphins and flying fish.

Bocas del Toro is an island chain with a lush rainforest, mangroves and … mosquitoes. The colourful wooden houses are built on stilts and water-taxis are the main mean of transport. Moored at Marina Carenero we awaited the arrival of the customs and immigration officials. Five turned up demanding 5 copies of all the boat papers and passports, inspected the boat and, when we were unable to pay the $160 out-of-hours fee in cash, whisked André off in their police boat and escorted him to a bank!

We sailed along the coast and deep up Rio Chagres, anchoring in the crocodile infested waters where screeching howler monkeys kept us awake. The next day we reached Shelter Bay Marina at the entrance of the Panama Canal. It is situated at the edge of a forest and the green parrots, who nest there, deafen you at sunset. The Marina runs a daily shuttle bus to Colon where you complete the necessary paperwork, obtain sailing permits and shop. In August the bridge over the Panama Canal opened but until then the bus crossed by ferry or over the immense locks. Quite amazing to be so near the huge vessels crossing the Canal.

The remote, rarely visited San Blas is a 400+ island-archipelago, home to the autonomous, small Guna people who live as in bygone days, as we witnessed when invited onto 2 islands. The Guna, in their dug-out canoes, approach boats selling their intricate handiwork, mangoes and lobsters. We spent 12 idyllic days there with our sons Philippe and Olivier and Juliette (Olivier’s girlfriend). Palmed-fringed islets, coconuts, white sands, turquoise waters, coral and exotic fish. In short, paradise! André had planned an itinerary among the western San Blas islands. We were virtually always alone and often sailed through shallow, coral waters needing constant vigilance. The boys frequently took over the navigation and sailing whilst bemoaning the lack of wind! We snorkelled, once on a coral-covered wreck near Dog Island, and the youngsters paddle-surfed to islets and slung hammocks between palm trees.

Returning to Panama’s coast we toured the mangroves in our dingy and moored at friendly Panamarina boasting an excellent restaurant. The youngsters flew home and we sailed back to Shelter Bay to start maintenance, plan some improvements and prepare to put the yacht on dry dock until the end of the hurricane season. As many sailors in the marina are crossing the canal, we gleaned useful information and tips often exchanged in the pool while relaxing after a day of hard work in the oppressive heat and 85% humidity! We met many interesting people including Diane and Richard from Quebec whom we hope to see again somewhere in the Pacific. Driving to the airport through Panama City we saw huge skyscrapers, building sites everywhere and a modern underground. This is in sharp contrast to the rural, undeveloped, poor, litter-strewn countryside.

Bocas Del Toro, Isla Colòn, Panama

Water Taxi at Isla Carenero, Bocas Del Toro

Isla Carenero

Parque Simòn Bolìvar in Bocas Del Toro

Aqua Baños in Carenero Island

Navigation up Rìo Chagres, Panama

On the way to the San Blas Islands with Olivier and Juliette

Carti Islands in San Blas

Guna village in Carti Islands

Philippe join us at Nonomulu, Carti

Isla Maquina, San Blas Islands

Gunboat Island, San Blas Islands

Snorkeling at Coco Bandero Cays, San Blas Islands

Olosicuidup, Coco Bandero Cays

Dupwala, Coco Bandero Cays

Holandes Cays, San Blas Islands

Lemmon Cays, San Blas Islands

Dinner on board

Dog Island wreck, San Blas

Dog Island wreck

Corals on Dog Island wreck

Banedup, San Blas Islands

Panamarina mooring

Moondance on dry-dock at Shelter Bay Marina, Panama

Panama City